The Italians really know how to do family fun. Damn it that the umbilically attached villas are sooo expensive. But, don't sweat it, the Olga Polizzi-designed rooms are as fabulous. What a blissfully rugged, pine-scented island, with inky-blue waters and an unfailing sea breeze. Yes it's a big-bananas hotel, but it cleverly retains a sense of style and intimacy- no whiffs of chlorine, nothing plastic or tacky. The sheer size and openness and raw beauty are an adventure, without being in the least bit hard to negotiate-important if you are with brood or buggy. Days whirl by in a flurry: pools with a swimming instructor on call; a pretty pale beach of the sort you don't often find in the Med; floodlit tennis courts: bikes to borrow; and a free (yes free) kids' club with excitements such as pottery and theatre. Teenagers can dump the grump- there are cinema nights and a weekly party on the beach with enough gelato to sink a vaporetto. Meanwhile, the restaurants are sparkling and sophisticated, and the spa oozes serious wow factor. And, glory be, let the sun shine. Hot. At Easter, Yippee!